I know there have been quite a few discussions about this topic. We
are currently using "tacky glue" which works very well for attaching
different kinds of materials together. We'll see how it holds up, as
the stamps went out recently.

mulbie

--- In letterbox-usa@y..., "Brian, Ryan & Lori" wrote:
> Can anybody recommend a product for attaching SpeedyStamp to a wood
> backing ? I appreciate the help.
>
> TeamGreenDragon

Brian, Ryan & Lori wrote:
>Can anybody recommend a product for attaching SpeedyStamp to a wood
>backing ? I appreciate the help.

I use either Plumber's Goop or a silicon adhesive like the household
product made by GE (you can get them at Wal-Mart or Home Depot). These are
water- and temperature-resistant, and will bond different textured surfaces
quite well. These adhesives are flexible, so they 'give' a bit when
stressed instead of failing. It's important that you coat the wood backing
evenly with the glue and then press it firmly in place so that the front of
the stamp is perfectly flat -- if the stamp warps because the glue is
uneven, you won't get a good image from the stamp.

Also, Wal-Mart sells 1/8" (or so) thick pieces of pine in its craft section
that work pretty well for a backing. They come in packages, 6 6" x 3" (or
so) sheets to a pack, for 99 cents. I like them because they're thin, which
makes it easier to fit in a letterbox with the journal and other stuff. The
wood can be cut easily (you can also get a miter box and saw at Wal-Mart
very inexpensively). I'm trying some hardwoods now, like ash and maple in
3/8" and 1/4" thicknesses, and they're working well, but I'm not sure they
provide an end result that's any better than the Wal-Mart stuff.

You must sand the edges and face of the wood to remove rough edges and
create a good surface for the stamp image. After sanding, I stamp the image
on the wood (if I mess up, I just sand it down and start again ), let it
dry, then apply 2 coats of spray polyurethane or lacquer, let that dry,
sand it lightly, and then spray a final clear coat. Once that coat is dry,
I glue on the stamp and let it cure for at least 24-48 hours before sealing
it in the letterbox.



|-#-#-#-#-#-#-#-#-#-#-#-#-#-#-#-#-#-#-|
Silent Doug, P20 F78 X04
silentdoug@douglasgerlach.com
http://www.letterboxing.info

--- Fireflylight@aol.com wrote:
> I've been using rubber cement. So far it has worked
> for me... Don't know how well it will hold up over
> time and with exposure to the elements!

i used rubber cement for my sig stamp. the key is to
ufollow the instructions on the jar for "stronger
bond." so far so good. i haven't put any wood backing
on the stamps on my 2 planted boxes.

rubber stamp stores may or may not have nicely shaped
stamp backing blocks in various sizes. the nice ones
that are professionally shaped. they were reasonably
cheap, too. i got mine at the rubber stamp store in
issaquah, wa.



=====
hoof & spoke
letterboxer, wa
f1 p2 h1
http://www.geocities.com/hoofandspoke

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> Can anybody recommend a product for attaching
> SpeedyStamp to a wood backing ? I appreciate the help.

I used wood glue once, and it seemed to work pretty well. But
then I decided the backing wasn't worth the hassle, so I stopped
making them completely. (I'm lazy at heart. Really! *smile*)

-- Ryan

> Can anybody recommend a product for attaching SpeedyStamp to a wood
> backing ?

Team GD,

As another poster has written, Superglue/Crazyglue (cyanoacrylate),
works well. I agree. I have made over 50 stamps using the pink
stuff, the white stuff, and several other stuffs. I have used a
plank of 1/8 inch balsa for most of the stamps. It seems to be
pretty stable unless the stamp gets soaked in water. Then, like
other woods, it warps. If if warps the right direction, then you
just have a roll on stamp :) I cut it with the same exacto knife I
use to cut the piece of rubber out of the larger piece. The glue
sticks in about 10 seconds. So from rubber stamp and back, it takes
about 10 seconds to stamp the stamp on the wood and then another 30
seconds to attach it to the wood.

<

I've had great luck with good old fashioned rubber cement.
Just put a light coat on the wood and the pink..let get tacky for a moment
and press together....
works like a charm.

Magic Mike

>From: "Brian, Ryan & Lori"
>Reply-To: letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com
>To: letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [LbNA] Pink Stuff - Wood Backing ?
>Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 14:19:58 -0000
>
>Can anybody recommend a product for attaching SpeedyStamp to a wood
>backing ? I appreciate the help.
>
>TeamGreenDragon
>


_________________________________________________________________
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> Can anybody recommend a product for attaching
> SpeedyStamp to a wood backing ?

A couple of people have mentioned that they use rubber cement
for backings, and I'd like to say that I've found a couple that look
like they were glued with rubber cement and they're falling off.

I played around with rubber cement a little bit, but I just found it
too easy to peal off. Granted, people aren't supposed to TRY to
peal it off, but when I wanted to glue on a back, I wanted to make
sure it would stick for a long, long time with minimal upkeep, and
it's my experience that rubber cement is not the best glue for the
job.

The outdoor "weatherproof" wood glue I used seemed to work
great and was still hanging tight as a slug in a film canister six
months later. (I used a wood backing for it--cherry.)

How tight is a slug in a film canister? I bet it'll still be in there six
months later! Not that I've tried it, of course. =)

-- Ryan

I recommend 'Household Goop--Adhesive & Sealant' to perform this
task. It's awesome and I've had no problems with it so far! It
works on different materials, too.


dvn2r ckr
F171 P41 X34 E2

--- In letterbox-usa@y..., "rscarpen" wrote:
> > Can anybody recommend a product for attaching
> > SpeedyStamp to a wood backing ?
>
> A couple of people have mentioned that they use rubber cement
> for backings, and I'd like to say that I've found a couple that
look
> like they were glued with rubber cement and they're falling off.
>
> I played around with rubber cement a little bit, but I just found
it
> too easy to peal off.

The trick with rubber cement is to follow the directions for a
permanent bond. When using rubber cement, if you just coat both
surfaces and stick them together immediately, they are SUPPOSED to be
able to peal apart, and they will even though it seems like they're
sticking when you adhere them to one another. For a permanent bond
you need to use a thin coat and let it get tacky (at least 30
minutes) before sticking them together. I've used this method for
years for many projects that have been exposed to heat, cold,
moisture, etc. and it is very reliable.

Deb